5 spice kumquat chutney

this is the last of my 10 pound batch - ordered from here quite some time ago. as you may know, i love kumquats, those not-so-sour fruits that half-heartedly roll around masquerading as pucker-inducing citrus. i swear, they must have to practice. but i'm not fooled.

these little guys are sweeties!

having just returned from a trip to british columbia to find my last couple pounds of 'em barely hanging on to their youth, i had to quickly devise a plan to get them sealed up in jars.

kumquats always make me think of places far, far, east - places i've never been. chinese 5 spice powder, or some variation of it, is ubiquitous in that part of the world. using that as a jumping off point, this is what i did:



5 spice kumquat chutney

well actually, hold on, let's back up. first, i climbed to the top of my larder, reached my paw behind the skull and crossbones sign, careful not to disturb the trap, and pulled out my secret chile basket.



(i just realized we must truly be chummy cats now, 'cause i'm telling you about my hidden chile basket!) yes peeps, this is my basket full-o'-hot-gold gathered from around the globe. there's more underneath, but what you can see is aleppo-style pepper from turkey, white peppercorns from kerala, new mexican chile powder, the whole red chiles are from a particularly succulent bush from thine own garden, and, ok, there's some real cinnamon from sri lanka on the side there. but, what you really want to know about is the two bags in the front, brought back by yours truly from bhutan, where it's called local pepper, but what's otherwise known as szechuan pepper.

it's the real deal, not the unfortunate pink and white peppercorn mix mislabeled here in the states, no no. upon having my first - and probably a little bit too much - taste of szechuan pepper, my throat, lips and chest became tingly and then numb, and my tongue, of it's own accord, stopped behaving inside my mouth and took a leap way out and south. it is, in fact, the stuff legends are made of. but that was not the half of it. while all of this was happening, and in what was certainly not our coolest traveling moment, it sent M running from the restaurant, gasping for breath, both hands pulling at his shirt collar, and me running after him, tongue fully exposed, yelling, "ah you ahlight?"

respect.



eaten though, in proper doses, it has a pleasant tingling effect which enhances both the heat and one's ability to take the heat of accompanying chiles. it, in fact, is not a pepper at all, but the seedpod of a wild citrus variety.

if you don't have a trip planned to bhutan, china, or another country in that 'hood anytime soon, and you don't have a chinatown near you, you could try this place. though i've never tried their szechuan pepper, i've had great luck with other spices i've purchased there. and by the description, they know what they're talking about.

if you can't get your paws on any this go round, you can omit it all together and you will still have a very lovely and exotic tasting chutney. you can just call it 4 spice kumquat chutney and no one will be the wiser.

let's try this again.



5 spice kumquat chutney

1 & 1/2 pounds kumquats (preferably organic)
1 large head garlic, cloves peeled
4 inch slice of ginger, peeled and roughly chopped
1 & 1/2 pounds yellow onions, peeled and chopped fine
2 cups pitted and chopped dates
2 & 3/4 cups raw cane sugar (or any light brown sugar)*
3 cups white wine vinegar
2 tablespoons sea salt
1/2 dried red chile (or 1 whole if they're small)
4 whole cloves
1/2 teaspoon whole szechuan pepper
1/4 inch piece of a cinnamon stick
1 whole star anise
1/2 pint or smaller mason jars

yield: approximately 3 pints

1. prepare your canning jars and lids. no need to sterilize as you will be processing for 10 minutes.

2. slice the little stem end off each kumquat, slice them in half lengthwise, quarter the larger ones, then slice each piece in half across. as you do this discard the larger seeds, don't worry about the smaller ones they are edible. place them in your non-reactive (enameled iron or stainless steel) preserving pot as you go, so you catch all of the juice.

3. if you have one of these or a small food processor or blender, add the garlic and ginger and grind to a past. otherwise chop them both fine. add garlic-ginger paste to your preserving pot, along with the chopped onions.

4. use that same lovely gadget or a mortar & pestle to grind the chile, cloves, szechuan pepper, and cinnamon to a powder. leave the star anise whole. add the spices to the post along with the chopped dates, sugar, salt and white wine vinegar. heat on medium low until the sugar melts. then turn up the heat to medium high and bring to the boil.

5. once boiling turn the heat down a bit, just enough to keep things rolling at a steady boil. it should take 20-30 minutes for your chutney to cook down to the desired consistency. stir as you go, and stir more often as it begins to thicken. at 10 minutes of boiling, discard the whole star anise, if you leave it in too long, it will permeate the chutney and drown out the other spices.

you will know it's done when you can run a wooden spoon across the bottom and the chutney hovers on either side before covering the bottom of the pan up once again. remember it will thicken upon cooling, so don't let it get too thick while you're cooking. as long as you can see the bottom of the pan clearly in the wake of the spoon your good.

6. hot water bath process filled jars for 10 minutes. chutneys are best if left to rest for 2-3 weeks before eating, and last a full 2 years in the larder without any change in quality.

this chutney is flavor-packed. it's a winner on soft cheeses, in between buttery pressed bread and runny cheddar, and as a side to anything stir-fried up in a wok.

pawnote:
i used 3 cups of sugar, but dates are so sweet, i think 2 & 3/4 cups is the way to go.

north indian lime pickle

during citrus season i become a pickle making machine. i know marmalade is the flavor of the month for most, but my year's meals would be incomplete without jars of fermented citrus lining up in my fridge at the ready to pack just about any dish with salty, spicy, sweet, and puckery flavor. from the left is salt and pepper preserved kumquats, gingery lime pickle, north indian lime pickle, and sweet preserved kumquats.

yes, i've realized that to complete this set, i need to give you one more recipe. get your limes ready, and...chop, chop!



or more appropriately, slice, slice, of course.



north indian lime pickle

8 limes, plus juice of 3 limes
1/4 cup salt (scant if yours is fine)
1/4 cup sugar (i used coconut palm sugar, you can use any natural or raw light brown sugar)
1/8 cup cayenne powder*
1 teaspoon tumeric
1/2 tablespoon garam masala (see recipe below)

1. slice the limes lengthwise in quarters, then slice each quarter across in 1/4 inch pieces as in photo above.

2. toss everything in a bowl except for the lime juice and stir.



3. place everything in a quart jar and pour the juice of 3 limes over.

4. set the jar on a sunny window sill and give it a shake every day. if you have it in a jar that you know won't leak turn it on it's head one day, and then back again the next. do this every day for 6-8 weeks, length of time will vary by the thickness of your limes' skins. you can start tasting around the 5 week mark, if your teeth can chomp through the skin with no problem - they are ready. don't let them get mushy though!

technically, you don't have to keep this in the fridge, but they will keep fermenting if kept in warmer temperature, and eventually become too soft. i put mine right in the refrigerator when determined done where they will store quite possibly forever.

around my crib, we eat indian pickles with just about everything. my general rule is, if you're serving a meal that has a bowl of grain, flatbread, or side of yogurt attached to it, place a little bowl of these on the table too.

pawnote:
*i lower the sugar and add cayenne to this recipe, 'cause that's the way i roll. but if you are less of a hottie, you can do what a lot of north indians do to their lime pickles - omit the cayenne powder and up the sugar by a 1/4 cup.


wait, there's more! ... my garam masala recipe.



garam masala

garam masala is an ubiquitous north indian spice blend, you'll find in india that no two are exactly alike. you could buy some already made at the store, but for best flavor, freshness, and the judicious mix of spices, i recommend making your own. this is my favorite way.

1/8 cup cumin seeds
1/8 cup coriander seeds
3/4 tablespoon cardamom seeds (smash the green pods with the side of a knife, or a pestle to get to the seeds)
1 cinnamon stick (a 3-inch long piece, broken)
3/4 tablespoon cloves
1 & 1/2 tablespoons whole black peppercorn
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground or grated nutmeg

1. heat a dry frying pan on medium, use an iron one if you have it.

2. add all of the spices except the nutmeg. give the pan a shake so they spread evenly over pan.

3. roast for approximately 5 to 8 minutes, until you smell a heavenly aroma and the cumin and coriander get just a shade darker gold. keep shaking the pan back and forth a few times as they heat, and be careful not to let them get too dark because they will burn. if you are unsure, take them off, quick!

4. when done, take the pan off the heat and stir in the nutmeg. pour into a plate to cool.

5. once cool, grind in a spice or coffee grinder. i use this. whatever you don't use right away can be stored in a sealed jar away from light for up to 6 months. use it in 3 months if you can, for top quality taste.

salt & pepper preserved kumquats

this is so simply a play on the ubiquitous preserved lemons. those same preserved lemons that i rinse, chop, and throw on everything with either a grain, green or bean all winter. yes, the ones that everyone does with just salt, but my favorite version has a bit more oomph than that. of course.

feeling a bit oomph deprived lately, and having just gotten my paws on 10 lbs of the most wonderful kumquats i think i've ever tasted. i've come up with this:

salt & pepper preserved kumquats

2 pounds kumquats (preferably organic)
1 tablespoon black peppercorns, ground
3 whole cloves, ground
scant 1/2 cup sea salt
1 & 1/2 tablespoons sugar (i use raw)
juice of 3 meyer lemons (or regular lemons)
1.5 liter or half gallon jar

1. make sure kumquats are clean and completely dry. slice the little button off the end and cut in half lengthwise. no need to discard the seeds, you can eat them!

2. in a bowl mix together the halved kumquats, ground pepper and cloves, salt and sugar. stir until the kumquats are well coated with the salt and spice.

3. place kumquats in jar, pour lemon juice over and cap the jar.

4. store at room temperature, shake once a day for 10 days to 2 weeks, or until they reach the desired softness. be sure not to let them get too soft - you want them to have a bit of heft between the teeth. once you've determined them done, stick them in the fridge where they can last for a year or more.

to use: lift out desired amount with a clean, dry spoon and rinse under cold water. chop, or serve whole and use just as you would preserved lemon; over all manner of grain, green or bean dishes.



how's that for a winter staple?

pasta frittata

this is so incredibly simple - and good - that as M and i were polishing off yet another bit of leftover-pasta-turned-awesome-brunch, i realized i can't keep this from you any longer. this, peeps, is no more than yesterday's pasta plus farm fresh eggs, and no less than an age-old italian staple. that's right. the kind you most definitely need to know about.

you see, when it comes to just-made dinner time pasta, around my crib, it's al dente or bust. but what to do with the leftovers? because warmed again pasta will never have the toothsome edge that makes a pasta good.

this easy classic is, and has been, the answer. toothsome be gone. in it's place a bed of eggy goodness packed with flavor and texture. moist on the inside, slightly crispy on the out.

i'm not tellin' a lie when i say it's just eggs.



and pasta.



this one happens to be made from our winter staple pasta; a play on arrabbiata, this time with spaghetti, that includes olives and capers (remind me to tell you about it sometime). but trust me when i tell you that it works equally as well with a pesto'd penne, an angel-haired seafood, a garlic and oil linguini, a fusilli with broccoli rabe...

you name it, it'll work.

pasta frittata

any amount of leftover room temperature pasta, any kind
6-8 large eggs
salt and pepper
olive oil
10 inch oven proof skillet

serves 4

1. the number of eggs depends on the amount of pasta you have leftover. if it's close to a good 1/2 pound, 6 is enough. much less than that and 8 it is. whatever number you go with, put them in a big bowl and whisk. add salt and pepper, again use your judgement based on the pasta sauce. add the room temperature pasta, and stir gently allowing the egg to loosen up the pasta.

2. drizzle olive oil to film the bottom of the skillet and warm on medium. once warmed add the egg and pasta mixture. use a wooden spoon or spatula to even out the pasta and tuck it underneath the egg as best you can.

3. turn the heat to low and cover. let cook for approximately 5 minutes or until the egg begins to puff and cook around the edges. while the frittata is cooking, preheat the broiler.

4. when the egg is cooked around the edge but still runny on top, place under the broiler. broil for 2-3 minutes or until the egg on top is cooked. you can let the pasta get slightly crispy, or not. it's a matter of personal taste. i like it crispy.

when having a friend stop by for lunch, either someone you know, or yourself, flip it onto a plate and then back again on another. so that the pretty side is on top. if you're plain hungry and would rather put the niceties aside, flip it once, and chow.



ciao!

shizzles with picklz: shallot pie

the holiday season is in full swing and i've been feeling kinda generous. (have you noticed?) i mean, perfect pie crust over there, fried shallots over here. i've been giving away some of my most prized secrets. why stop now i say!



look at these instigators. they always look like they're ready to rock and roll, don't they?

or is it just me? :)

i love shallots. they are the pièce de résistance of my allium bed each summer (not that i'd kick the onions, leeks or garlic out of it for eating crackers) and it's not only because of the above mentioned fried shallots, oh no! it's because i love shallot pie!

but before we get into the recipe let me explain why i'm roarin' about shizzles with picklz in the title of this post.

hint: it's about the mustard.



i learned a little trick a while back from sarah raven and her lovely cookbook in season. basically, she slathers mustard all over her tart crusts. it's a wonderful way to add flavor, and to use lotz of your homemade mustard.

please, do not be deterred from making shallot pie if you don't have homemade mustard at the ready. just make it with the best dijon you can get your paws on this time. and next time when you find yourself in your kitchen with your right (or left if you're left handed) index finger resting politely on your bottom lip, saying to yourself, "hmmm, should i make me some homemade mustard like ms k does from the amazing blog local kitchen?" i bet i know what your answer will be.



shallot pie

1/2 recipe perfect pie crust (i like to use whole wheat flours for this pie)
3 cups sliced shallots*
3 tablespoons olive oil
3 tablespoons dijon mustard
4 large eggs plus 2 yokes
1 & 1/4 cup cream or half and half
6 ounces chévre (fresh, soft & crumbly goat cheese)
salt & pepper

makes one 10 inch pie

1. roll out crust and place in 10 inch pie-dish. put in the fridge for 30 minutes. preheat oven to 350 degrees.

2. warm the oil in a fry pan on medium heat. add shallots and fry until they just begin to color, about 8 minutes.

3. after 30 minutes take pie out of fridge and prick the bottom in several places with a fork. place a sheet of parchment paper over the crust and spread pie beads or dry beans over it to weight down the crust. bake for 20 minutes or just until lightly golden. remove parchment and beads or beans and let cool a bit. keep the oven heated at 350 degrees.



4. while pie shell is cooling, whisk together eggs, yolks and cream, and add salt and pepper to taste.

5. spread mustard over the bottom of the cooled crust. i like to use a pastry brush. add the shallots first, then crumble the goat cheese over top of them. pour the egg mixture gently over the whole lot.



6. bake for 25 minutes, or until the center of pie is set (which means just firm).

eat warm or at room temperature.

oh and BTW, this is the perfect pie to have around if you happen to have a hangover (not that i'm sayin' you're planning to have one anytime soon).

...so there, you get another one of my tricks.

HAPPY NEW YEAR!

*pawnote: *i love shallots so i often use them in this pie, but you can do an onion pie - with a gutsy brown or beer based mustard, leeks with a honeyed dijon, or ramps with something spicy like this. i have! there's a kazillion ways to mix and match your favorite allium with your favorite mustard in this pie.



shizzles with picklz: a here and there series exploring the salty sides -
i'm talking about the best pickle pairings (and just because it's damn fun to say)!

crispy fried shallots and happy holidays

some year, i swear, i will take decent photos after the fish course. it just never seems to go as planned.

so, let me make it up to you:



cute catz wishing you happy holidays



holiday disco ballz



crispy fried shallots (oh, what the hell - shallotz)

these are the crème de la crème of our holiday danish smørrebrød, if you ask me (and many others at my table it would seem, by the rate at which they disappeared behind chomping, smiling holiday teeth).

but scattering them atop an artfully assembled danish open sandwich is just the tip of the fjord. because these crispy fried shallots make everything better. in fact, they are quite commonly strewn across all manner of indonesian dishes. those spicy, coconut-broth based soups and curries are the perfect match.

i make these and keep 'em around to add a bit of deeply flavored crunch (and umami) to just about anything; pastas, soups, sandwiches, egg dishes. i really cannot think of a savory dish that would not be made better by a dusting of these.

you will need:

1 pound (or more*) shallots, or onions
flavorless high-heat vegetable oil
a wide bodied shallow pan, at least 9 inches in diameter
2 plates, and some paper towels

1. peel and slice shallots; cut into barely 1/8th inch slices crosswise. meaning, your slivers will be rings, or half rings. if using onions, slice them in half lengthwise first and then across for half rings.

2. fill your shallow pan with oil up to a solid 1/8th of an inch and warm on medium. as the oil is warming, place a double layer of paper towels on two plates.

3. when the oil is heated, add shallots. stir and fry until they just begin to brown on the edges - about 10 minutes. turn heat down to medium low and continue to stir and fry - they should get golden all over within another 3-5 minutes. turn the heat to low and keep stirring and frying until they are browned all over. this will take another 3 or so minutes.

4. once all or most of the shallots are brown (but not burnt!) take off the heat and lift them out with a slotted spoon. take care to leave as much of the oil as you can in the pan. spread shallots in a single layer on one of the paper towel covered plates. after 3 minutes transfer to the other plate and spread once again in a single layer.

5. let cool completely and transfer to a glass jar with tight fitting lid.

make a big batch, 'cause you can keep them in a jar on your larder shelf for a good 2-3 weeks or more. that is, of course, if you don't crunchy-munch them all up in one go. which you probably will.


pawnote: *i make a lot at once, 2-3 pounds of shallots usually. if you up the ante, make sure your frying pan is big enough so that they are more-or-less in a single layer when first put into the pan. increase the plate and paper towel combo too. you'll need two dinner-sized plates with two layers of paper towels for each pound of shallots.

happy holidayz!

tigress' best books of 2011 & a holiday give-away + cookie party on facebook!

i've been so excited about my holiday list of fave preserving and d.i.y books of 2011 that i decided to have a big ole' cyber party on facebook and give 'em all away!

it's true!

i gotz so much to say; about the party, about the books, about how-we-gonna-have-one-of-those-holiday-cookie-parties in cyberspace?

let me start with the books - the books that would totally be on my holiday wishlist (and should be on yours!) if i didn't already have every last one. i love these books!



can it, bottle it, smoke it by karen solomon is chock full of beautiful photos and clear instruction on things like plum catsup, carrot almond jam and pickled grapes (right?). but the best part of karen's book is that she goes even further afield in her d.i.y. kitchen. there's a 'stalk it' section with tortilla chips, a 'smoke it' section with chipotles in adobe sauce, and 'munch it' with crunchy lentil snacks. need i say more?

the hip girl's guide to homemaking kate payne and i go way back. i've been following her blog since it's inception, and we even u-picked strawberries together once. even if those facts weren't true, i would still say that kate has written a gem of a book. there isn't a thing about homemaking left uncovered; hip-decor on a budget, composting, d.i.y and environmentally friendly cleaning products, entertaining with style (while on a budget) canning, bread-baking, button-mending. i'm like, how does she know all this? she's got the martha gene, but cooler, much cooler. even pilgrim me, whose had my house for quite some time now, learned a thing or ten from kate. this book should be on your holiday gift list for anyone learning how to build a (hip) home.



canning for a new generation by lianne krissoff has been out since 2010. i'll be perfectly honest, it got lost in the shuffle of a kazillion preserving books that launched in 2010. but now that i finally have it in my paws, i can tell you it is definitely a cut above the rest. it delivers exactly what it promises; bold fresh flavors for the modern pantry. and, you gotta love a book that ends with a chapter entitled 'baked and creamy things to put preserves on' no?

the urban farm handboook by annette cottrell and joshua mchnichols is more than just a resource for city folk who want to take control of what they eat, it's an inspiration. i've been following annette's blog since she began her journey in 2009 and all is can say is, wow! she did it - in the city! yes, you can grow your own food - and a lot of it - on a little plot of city land. if you're serious about getting closer to your food source, buy this book. but please, don't take my roar for it, you can view the first 50 pages on the urban farm handbook website.



we sure can! by sarah hood is a fun book loaded with great canning recipes. what's different about sarah's book is the spotlight she puts on the on-line canning and preserving community. which, in case you haven't noticed, has exploded in the last three years. you'll find a short interview with yours truly (that would be moi) and a couple of my recipes too. i'm not the only one - many of your fave canning and preserving bloggers are featured here. check out the list of contributors on the publisher's website. see what i'm sayin' - fun!

tart and sweet by kelly geary and jessie knadler hasn't left my kitchen since i received a copy last spring. like i said way back in april, out of the 101 recipes, there's like 99 that i want to try. it's been a joy to dig into this book and play with the modern flavors presented by these two talented preservers. and with a winter chapter that contains things like grapefruit honey jam and candied kumquats with cinnamon and star anise this book is not leaving my kitchen anytime soon.




homemade living series - yes, i'm giving away ashley english's entire series to one lucky winner! another one of my blogging-buddies, i've been diggin' ashley's blog since the beginning. this is a set of gorgeous hardback books - a great gift for anyone interested in small-scale homesteading. all four of the books are so well done; canning and preserving covers the classic recipes every beginner wants, and then offers up things like rhubarb and amaretto chutney. the home dairy book is one of the absolute best on the market - and has replaced my old stand-by. if you are thinking of dabbling in dairy, you want this book. while i don't have my own just yet, keeping bees, and keeping chickens has me longing for that day. and i know i'll be prepared, 'cause i've been pining over these books.


ok now about the party where i'm gonna give away one copy of each of these beauties:


what: tigress' cyber holiday party
where: hungry tigress facebook page
when: thursday, december 15th, 7:30-8:30pm EST
what to bring: your fave cookie recipe
why do we have to bring our fave cookie recipe? (say you): 'cause it's the holidays and its time to make cookies, and also because tigress is a cookie monster. COOKIES!


here let me explain; since we can't all meet up and bring real cookies i thought it would be fun to share our favorite recipes just in time for the holidays!

• bring cookie recipes! link to a recipe you know is good or want to try, or cut & paste your own in one of your comments at the party. if you're a blogger, have extra fun and post a new recipe on your blog between now and december 15th and come on over and link it up at the party!
  

• if you don't have a cookie recipe, you're still invited! just come! we'll be talking about things like our favorite holiday preserves for eating and for gift-giving, sweet ways to use up our preserves around the holidays, and what's going on our holiday table that we've grown ourselves. you know, fun stuff!

• you could be the lucky winner of one of the amazing books above! i'll use that handy random number generator throughout the party to pick the winners (please note, i can only send to addresses in the US).

full disclosure; i'm a wee bit nervous as i've never done a cyber party before, but you know what? it's the holidayz peeps! let's party! give a roar below if you're gonna be there, you know, just so i rent enough chairs and shizzle!

see you on december 15th, at 7:30pm EST on facebook!