taking & making stock

maybe it's my utilitarian bent, but there's something i find exhilarating about 'cleaning up the garden' right around the break of fall.

on a good year, mid-september is about the time i've finally had my fill of fresh tomatoes, cucumbers and melons. it's when the tentative chill of evening and early morning reawakens a taste for warming meals; soups, risottos, braised vegetables...

you know, comfort food.

let's face it, in september the veggies in the garden (or your local farmer's market) are certainly no spring chickens anymore.

they may look a tad less precocious than they did in their youth but,



they still got good flavor.

and that's exactly what i'm looking for in a good vegetable stock.



you?

and yes it's true that the making of vegetable stocks is a wonderful way to 'clean up the garden' or to take advantage of the dwindling farmer's market prices, and of course to give meaning and purpose to those vegetables about to enter mid-life but,




i would make it regardless of those things because having delicious vegetable stock is essential in my kitchen (and will be in yours too if you give it a try) throughout the winter months. it adds depth and deftness when making all the things i want to eat when it's cold outside.

(and i don't know about you, but i certainly don't feel inspired to make stock with vegetables sold for top dollar and flown in from who knows where).

so take stock of your garden or your farmer's market this month and make stock!


here are my two essentials, with these i can make just about any dish or soup - east or west. i freeze them in quart containers and ice cubes (which i place in freezer bags once frozen in trays for 24 hours). the quarts i use for soups, risottos and the like, and the cubes i use whenever a burst of flavor is needed in braises, sauces, beans, stir-frys, etc. they will last well in the freezer for a good 6 months.

asian-style stock
adapted from vegetarian cooking for eveyone by deborah madison

3 bunches scallions, chopped, including greens
2 large leeks, whites only, sliced thin (or 2 medium yellow onions)
6 large carrots, sliced fairly thin
8-10 lovage leaves* (or 2 celery stalks, coarsely chopped)
2 bunches cilantro, including stems, chopped
1 head garlic, peeled and coarsely chopped
1 inch ginger, sliced thin
1 & 1/4 cup dried shitake mushrooms (about 15 whole)
3 pieces kombu (about 6 inches each)
3 tablespoons soy sauce
3 tablespoons rice wine (mirin)
1 and 1/2 tablespoons salt
3 teaspoons dark sesame oil

yield: approximately 3 & 1/2 quarts

please note if you don't have a very large stockpot the recipe can be easily cut in half.

1. place all prepared ingredients except the dark sesame oil in a very large stockpot with 5 quarts water. bring to the boil.

2. once boiling lower the heat and keep at a strong simmer uncovered for 20 minutes. at 20 minutes remove the mushrooms and save for another use.

3. once the mushrooms are removed bring to the boil once again, and simmer uncovered for another 20 minutes.

4. strain. add the dark sesame oil and stir in gently. let cool completely and fill containers for freezing.

i use this stock in all manner of stir-frys, as a base for asian-inspired soups, or anywhere chicken stock is traditionally used.

hearty vegetable stock

adapted from the italian country table by lynne rosetta kasper

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 large carrots, coarsely sliced
4 medium yellow onions, coarsely chopped
1/2 pound white or cremini mushrooms, coarsely chopped
3 large cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
8-10 lovage leaves* (or 2 celery stalks, coarsely chopped)
5-8 fresh basil leaves
6 large romaine lettuce leaves, chopped
1 large tomato (or 2 medium, or a handful of cherry tomatoes)
1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

yield: approximately 3 & 1/2 quarts

1. heat oil on medium-high in a large skillet or sauté pan. add carrots, onions and mushrooms (if using celery, add here) and cook until the onions become a rich golden brown, approximately 10 minutes. stir frequently.

2. when onions are browned add garlic, basil and lovage and stir for a few seconds. add wine allowing the bottom of the pan to glaze. scrape all of this, including any browned bits on the bottom of the pan, into a very large stockpot.

3. add lettuce, tomato, nutmeg and water to cover by 4 inches (approximately 5 quarts). bring to the boil, reduce heat and simmer slowly for 1 & 1/2 hours.

4. strain and let cool completely. fill containers for freezing.

this recipe doubles nicely - which i often do, simply split the vegetables in half and brown in two parts, then combine in stockpot and continue as above in steps 3 & 4. there are so many uses for this flavorful stock, it can be used virtually anywhere in place of meat or poultry stock.

* pawnote: i planted lovage in my herb garden 5 years ago and this perennial has become a much loved and very useful addition to my yearly herb harvest. a strong flavored herb, i would describe it's taste as a cross between parsley and celery and use it in most dishes where celery is traditionally used.