Sunday, March 7, 2010

preserved lemons spiced 2 ways

by now most of you that have spent anytime around here at all know



i have a thing for indian lemon pickle - those fine specimens of
fermented perfection that do me right everywhere from curries, to flatbreads to yogurt and rice...

you may even know that i got married in rajasthan and traveled around for a month, where i kid you not -
that whole month i never longed for a morsel of any other persuasion than those sultry masalas.

but here's the thing-

way before i lost, for a moment, my breath at the first sight of the taj mahal.

or tried to coax it back in & out, respectively, in the middle of the night while traveling down a 4 lane highway at 70mph realizing i was looking straight into the eyes of a caravan of cargo carrying camels...

i was seduced by this:


preserved lemons of the maghreb

and this too:


persian spiced preserved lemons

lest you think my palate promiscuous, let me explain:

(i sort of half prepared a discourse about growing up in an italian-american-slovakian home and while those flavors and textures will always be part of who i am, my world literally opened up when i began to experience the world. not only by the good fortune and wherewithall of actually getting to these places, but by experiencing them on the palate. and how, even when one cannot actually trot around to all those exotic places, the palate can. and by studying world food cultures, one can learn a whole lotta 'bout the cultures of the world.)

but basically all i'm sayin' is



variety is the spice of life baby.


(ok, my palate is a tramp)



preserved lemons of the maghreb

1 pound meyer lemons (organic)
pinch saffron (kashmiri if you can, or spanish)
1 teaspoon aleppo pepper (or turkish, or cayenne powder, or paprika)
2 small bay leaves, or one large
3/4 tablespoon sugar (i use raw)
4 1/2 tablespoons salt (i use sea)
1 very clean & very dry 3/4 or 1 quart glass jar


1. wipe the lemons clean with a damp and then a dry cloth.

2. cut lemons in quarters lengthwise and remove seeds, try not to lose the juice

3. mix together the salt, sugar, and aleppo pepper. crumble the pinch of saffron between your fingers and into the bowl.

4. toss the lemons with the spices, salt and sugar and stir to coat the lemons.

5. press the coated lemon quarters into the jar. add the bay leaves somewhere in the middle. press hard enough so that the juice runs out and covers the fruit. with meyers this should be a sufficient amount of liquid - it should cover the fruit 3/4 of the way up.

6. leave in a sunny windowsill for 7 -10 days. give the jar a shake once or twice a day. if your jar allows you can turn it upside down in the am, and rightside up at night.

after the 7-10 day period the sun isn't as important but continue to leave it out of the fridge for another 2-3 weeks or until the peels have lost their bitter twang and are soft enough to chew comfortably but still hold their shape.





persian spiced preserved lemons

1 pound lemons (organic)
1/4 teaspoon cardamom seeds
8 whole cloves
1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
3/4 tablespoon sugar (i use raw)
4 1/2 tablespoons salt (i use sea)
juice of two lemons
1 very clean & very dry 3/4 or 1 quart glass jar


1. follow steps 1 and 2 above.

2. open the cardamom pods by hitting them briskly with a pestle, hammer or other blunt object. take the black seeds out and discard the shells. grind the peppercorns, cloves and cardamom seeds in a spice grinder or with a mortar and pestle.

3. combine the salt, sugar and spices and toss together with the lemon quarters until coated.

4. press the coated lemon slices into the jar. with regular lemons you will not, most likely, have enough juice to cover the lemons 3/4 of the way. if this is the case squeeze the juice of one or two more lemons to cover as such.

5. follow step 6 as above. regular lemons will not soften as fast as meyers and can take an additional 4-5 weeks after the initial 7-10 day sunny period.




to eat preserved lemons - take them out one by one and rinse under cold water, the flesh will scrape off easily with a thumbnail - discard this part. chop the peel and serve.

if you are not accustomed to eating preserved lemons i'll forgive you that you don't know their uses are endless. yes they are traditionally used in meat tangines in the maghreb, and are a perfect accompaniment to persian rice pilafs. but my friends, that is only the beginning of the story.

anywhere you want a salty-citrus hit, with just a bit of heat & spice for depth, you want these. chop them up for salads and their dressings, simple bean and grain dishes, pan-fried or roasted vegetables, and served on top of stir-fried shrimp or grilled fish, etc.

go ahead, you know your palate wants it...

:)

18 comments:

  1. Thanks for this! I just made some spicy preserved lemons and they look gorgeous but I was need a little inspiration on what to do with them. Other than ogle them I mean!

    ReplyDelete
  2. love your recipes and pics- i've been putting my preserved lemons in everything from southwestern black bean stew to baba-ganoush!

    ReplyDelete
  3. Beautiful, beautiful preserved lemons. Love that global palate!

    ReplyDelete
  4. As chance would have it I was drinking preserved lemon and club soda when I read this. My interest in preserved lemons came from falling in love with Chanh Muoi (Vietnamese Salty Lemonade)served at Vietnamese restaurants. In January I made two jars of them for the first time, but just the plain version. ( see post here: http://backyardfarmsto.blogspot.com/2010/01/maple-syrup-in-city-and-other-projects.html) I'm enjoying using them in lots of things now that they are are soft and perfumey! I can't wait to try your recipes!

    ReplyDelete
  5. These sound great. Honestly, I'd be hard pressed to think of dishes that you couldn't elevate or enhance with preserved citrus.

    ReplyDelete
  6. calliek - preserved lemon and club soda?! that sounds divine!

    ernest - lovely to see you here. and yes i agree, preserved citrus just cannot last long enough in my house! :)

    ReplyDelete
  7. Huh. Didn't realize I should be rinsing my lemons off. I just made my first batch a couple months ago. I used Meyer lemons & sea salt...that's it. I'd never had them before & wanted to try them out. I love them & fully intend on making other batches with spices, so I suppose those will need rinsed... Also, is that jar tinted in the last photo? I have both green & black cardamom, & assume you're using the green there, but even though the jar looks clear, just want to make sure. The recipe doesn't specify, & I've never done spiced lemons, so I just want to know which one works better.

    ReplyDelete
  8. hi drake - it is not imperative that you rinse the lemons, but traditionally they do. these would taste very, very salty if they were not rinsed, but you certainly don't have to rinse them. for these i used green cardamom, but black can also be used and i have. i like them both. just make sure to use the seeds only and discard the shell. enjoy, and let me know how they turn out for you! :)

    ReplyDelete
  9. Can I just say that I love the line, "my palate is a tramp"?

    ReplyDelete
  10. Hi Tigress,
    I thought it might be better for my first preserved lemon experience to just do the plain ones. I have found recipes with and without oil on the top. Which would you recommend?

    ReplyDelete
  11. duckandjunebug - i used to use oil in my preserved lemons and once i tried without i've not gone back because i really do prefer it. that is a personal preference.

    you could most definitely use either of my recipes above and omit the spice - and there you have it - plain preserved lemons. :)

    ReplyDelete
  12. Thanks Tigress,
    They are done. That is so easy.

    ReplyDelete
  13. duckandjunebug - i saw your photo. they look great! and it looks like you have them in the kind of jar that you can turn over. if so, place them upside down every day or two. let me know how you like them!

    ReplyDelete
  14. I am trying this, and plan to write about it. I love your blog, thanks much!

    ReplyDelete
  15. naomid - great! let me know how it turns out!

    ReplyDelete
  16. Sure thing, I'm loving them currently with spring veggies: http://cantaloupealone.blogspot.com/2010/04/pickled-lemons-are-your-new-best-friend.html

    ReplyDelete
  17. preserved lemons, ginger ale, vodka, and ice. yummy!

    ReplyDelete
  18. Hi,
    Can I substitute agave nectar or maple syrup for the sugar in these and all your other lemon pickles? I am planning lemon pickle marathon, but trying to avoid sugar.
    They all look mouthwatering. . .
    Thanks very much,
    Tal

    ReplyDelete